DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

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DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Sat Nov 26, 2016 9:05 pm

I've finally got round to finishing my Sub build that I started about 4 years ago then left it in my shed unfinished until last week.

The cabinet is about 22" cubed with curved sides, so narrower at the back.
I'm going to be using a Dayton Audio UM18-22 driver which is 18" in diameter and powering it with 1ch of a behringer nu6000dsp. The second Channel will power another sub eventually.

I will be using a Monacor smc-1 to combine the stereo input into mono output to feed the power amp.

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So, almost ready.
I have the amp, just waiting on the t-nuts, acoustic wadding, smc-1 and bass driver to arrive.
Sony BDP-S790 > Matrix Quattro Dac > Digidesign RM2's with SB Acoustics drivers > DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 Sub

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby studioman » Sat Nov 26, 2016 11:51 pm

Well done Matt. Looks great. LOVE the curved sides, and ALMOST wish I'd used curved sides on my ATCs just for the aesthetics, like the latest ATC monitors have....
They say if you can remember the 60's, you weren't really there. Now somehow I have reached 62...oh shit, it's 63 now....How and when did THAT happen?....there's a lesson there somewhere if only I could figure it out...

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Sun Nov 27, 2016 7:09 pm

Thanks David, I'm happy enough with how it's turned out, but it's going to take a lot of filling and sanding to get a good enough finish to paint.
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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby studioman » Sun Nov 27, 2016 10:34 pm

Have you considered covering it in leather or grained vinyl with a trim panel to cover the folded-over edges?
They say if you can remember the 60's, you weren't really there. Now somehow I have reached 62...oh shit, it's 63 now....How and when did THAT happen?....there's a lesson there somewhere if only I could figure it out...

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Sun Nov 27, 2016 11:52 pm

studioman wrote:Have you considered covering it in leather or grained vinyl with a trim panel to cover the folded-over edges?


Hi David,

We've actually been talking about paint etc over the weekend, but didn't think of leather. I see that the current trend for cars is to wrap them in any finish you like, so that got me thinking one of these places would be able to do the sub.

I'm virtually finished the box now, just applying the last bits of glue to fill down into the cuts I made in the curved sides. It's a slow process. I've used 3 tubes of no more nails, and over 1.5L of glue for this box :shock:
It's wired and ready for the driver now, just needs to all dry properly.

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby studioman » Mon Nov 28, 2016 9:19 pm

That's looking really good, Matt.....And your idea of wrapping is a good one....But you will still need to get a decently smooth surface....seal it with primer and then use spray primer-filler to complete the base coats....whether you decide to paint or vinyl wrap it.
The premier-filler used to be widely available but I found my only source nowadays was online.....using 6oo to 800 wet and dry paper between coats
They say if you can remember the 60's, you weren't really there. Now somehow I have reached 62...oh shit, it's 63 now....How and when did THAT happen?....there's a lesson there somewhere if only I could figure it out...

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Tue Nov 29, 2016 2:30 pm

Thanks for the tips David :)
I'll hopefully get time over the Christmas to do some more work on the cabinet.

Here's a few pics of the sub, the driver and a few bits arrived yesterday. It's up and running and sounding very potent :D

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby studioman » Tue Nov 29, 2016 11:20 pm

Matt, I think one long pice of leather or leather grained vinyl, wrapped round from the back, round the side, over the front baffle, round the other side and joining at the back, stuck on with contact adhesive and the edges slightly wrapped over onto the top and bottom, and capped with a thin top panel, 5mm smaller than the ACTUAL top surface, but wrapped in the same finish, OR painted black (matt, satin or gloss, your choice) will make the job professional and a LOT easier and quicker to finish.
They say if you can remember the 60's, you weren't really there. Now somehow I have reached 62...oh shit, it's 63 now....How and when did THAT happen?....there's a lesson there somewhere if only I could figure it out...

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Wed Nov 30, 2016 1:33 am

studioman wrote:Matt, I think one long pice of leather or leather grained vinyl, wrapped round from the back, round the side, over the front baffle, round the other side and joining at the back, stuck on with contact adhesive and the edges slightly wrapped over onto the top and bottom, and capped with a thin top panel, 5mm smaller than the ACTUAL top surface, but wrapped in the same finish, OR painted black (matt, satin or gloss, your choice) will make the job professional and a LOT easier and quicker to finish.


Hi David,

For filling the imperfections on the box, should I use wood filler?
I'm thinking I might paint it black or dark grey like my speakers in that tough studio monitor finish, that way it will be hard wearing too.

Cheers
Matt
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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby studioman » Wed Nov 30, 2016 9:27 pm

As long as your joint is sound, any filler will work, but to be honest I've recently started using the new formulation of David's Isopon P38 which is SO much easier to sand smooth.And it takes paint or glue well...
They say if you can remember the 60's, you weren't really there. Now somehow I have reached 62...oh shit, it's 63 now....How and when did THAT happen?....there's a lesson there somewhere if only I could figure it out...

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Wed Nov 30, 2016 11:23 pm

Ok thanks, I may try that.
Some of the filler is needed where I was trying to get rid of excess material with a saw to allow the router to complete the circle for the driver. I admit I should have been more careful here as it's the front of the cab, but I was impatient.

I've been having another go at the inuke EQ tonight and I'm reasonably happy with where it's at. I just wish the PEQ went below 20hz so I could boost below that. I'm running a wide EQ at 20hz so it will stretch below that.
I will eventually buy a minidsp 2x4 and bypass the amps EQ.
As far as frequency response goes, the sub is playing 10hz or maybe even lower and it's barely stretching it's legs.
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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Wed Dec 14, 2016 1:54 am

mini-dsp Umik-1 microphone arrived, so I measured my system response(using REW) as it stands from me setting the Sub up by ear, some tweaking to be done, but serious deep bass :D

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby AlmaataKZ » Sun Dec 18, 2016 4:31 pm

Wow, just saw this thread. What a great project!
How did you do the design of the enclosure (volume, dimensions)?
How did you choose the driver and the amp? what sort of processing and controls does the amp have? and why move to mini DSP?
Fantastic! would love to make one like this one day.

Also, why do you want to go below 20Hz? Are you sure you will hear the fundamental tones and not the harmonics? http://www.linkwitzlab.com/thor-measmt.htm


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This means that if the 40 Hz 2nd harmonic of a 20 Hz tone is at a 24 dB lower level, then it will sound equally as loud as the fundamental. This corresponds to 6% 2nd harmonic distortion. The 3rd harmonic distortion would have to be below 1%, or over 38 dB down, in order that it is less loud than the 20 Hz fundamental. It all leads to very low distortion requirements. The fundamental frequency sound pressure level needs to be above 70 dB to even become audible and it should not be masked by higher frequency distortion products.
iMac/Bluray/PVR - Marantz SR7008 - 7.1 ATC SCM50SLAT fronts, C1C centre, SCM7 rears, MonitoAudio M3 rear surr, C4 sub
Airplay multiroom (aex to genelec 6010, b&w mm1, avi dm10)
System here: http://atcforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=667

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Sun Dec 18, 2016 5:16 pm

Hi AlmaataKZ

Thanks, I've been wanting to build a Sub for a long time but didn't get to finish it for various reasons. I decided it was time to finish building the sub as I sold my Velodyne DD12 at the start of the summer with the intention of buying a good sub or building 1 or 2 subs. I intend to build a second one next year.

The box design is roughly 4cuft, which is a good compact size for a driver like this, it's a 22 inch cube with curved sides, so about 18inch's at the back, then what I'd say is the maximum amount of acoustic wadding added to increase the size of the box the driver see's.

I've always been fascinated with bass, speakers/subs and as I listen to mostly electronic music, part of the hobby for me is finding music with 20hz and lower content, so I went for an 18 inch driver in order to get low with the least amount of distortion.
With the sealed cabinet, EQ and power is added to stretch the frequency response down to below 10hz.

I chose the Behringer inuke6000dsp as this has been tested at 2 x 1800watts @ 4ohms and a good match for running 2 of these drivers. I'm currently using just 1ch of the amp.
The amp has full EQ including an 8 band PEQ, and endless amounts of adjustments including various crossovers and low pass and high pass filters.
A USB mic like the umik-1 and software like REW is fairly essential though in order to set everything up properly.

I chose the Dayton Audio Um18-22 based on a few factors.
1. A low fs of 19.5hz
2. Good power handling of 1000w(2000w max), but not too hungry to need 2-3kw like some drivers which ends up needing more expensive amps and dedicated circuits wired.
3. Very robust driver with a woven carbon type cone as opposed to more delicate paper as I've young kids.
4. Ability to work in a small(ish) sealed enclosure.
Here's a test of the driver too http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=driver&id=58

At the moment I've the Subs crossover set at 26hz with a 48db/oct slope as my speakers produce loads of bass due to help from the room. This way, the sub doesn't produce bass that the speakers do.
Adding a minidsp will allow me to cut some bass from my speakers(say below 60 or 80hz) once I've 2 subs, giving the subs more work to do and allowing higher spls with bass heavy material as at the moment my speakers try and play even 5hz tones which causes useless excursion from the speakers drivers.
Sony BDP-S790 > Matrix Quattro Dac > Digidesign RM2's with SB Acoustics drivers > DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 Sub

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Re: DIY Dayton Audio UM18-22 sub

Postby MattSPL » Mon Jan 02, 2017 4:29 pm

After some more tweaking of the sub, I took more measurements. It's amazing what opening and closing the door can do and also mic position plays a huge part.

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